Trip to Savannah and Charleston

I've been trying to write this post for the last month, but have failed time and time again.  Maybe it was because the sheer task was daunting.  Maybe it was because I knew that once I start, it would be hard to stop because it was such an eye-opening experience.  As a Northerner who has only previously ventured as far as North Carolina (Florida doesn't count), my knowledge of the South and Southern cuisine is embarrassingly narrow. I wanted to see the South, especially cities such as Savannah and Charleston that are so rich with history.  Although it lasted only four short days, I learned, experienced, and tasted a culture that was so deeply embedded in history.

Savannah:

Collins Quarter:

In a historic city with a generally older population, you might wonder where the younger generation likes to eat.  Although people usually imagine the South as a place of unchanging, traditional home-cooking, it has been proven that global cuisine is no longer confined to the big Northeast and West coast cities.  Therefore, it shouldn't be a surprise that the trendiest brunch spot in Savannah is actually an Aussie joint.  Except it's Aussie with a Southern twist, with a menu containing both Aussie favorites and Southern classics.  

For something a bit more traditional, we opted for the biscuits with gravy.  I've always had the impression that gravy had an unpleasant, grayish color and a mysteriously chunky texture, but this version was absolutely vibrant.  Not only was the presentation beautiful, the biscuits were heavenly soft, and not at all mushy from the gravy. 

The rest of the meal was more Aussie influenced.  We ordered a flat white, because most non-Aussie places fail at making a proper flat white.  We also had the avocado toast (I know, call me basic), which was garnished with feta cheese, tomatoes, and radish slices and speckled with sesame seeds. 

We also couldn't resist ourselves and tried this fizzy, raspberry cocktail.  To get complete our experience, we also ordered a full Aussie breakfast, packed with grilled tomatoes, sautéed mushrooms, eggs, sausage, and hearty bread. 

The Olde Pink House: 

However, if you're looking for something on the grander, more traditional side, then Olde Pink House would be your best bet.  Located inside an 18th century mansion, it's probably the most famous restaurant in Savannah. 

For starters, we tried the fried green tomatoes on a bed of creamy grits.  Tender, crispy, and not at all greasy, the dish was lighter than I expected.  The grits were especially sweet and buttery as well. 

We also tried the "Southern Sushi", which consists of smoked shrimp and grits, rolled in coconut crusted nori.  

For entrees we ordered the bourbon molasses grilled pork tenderloin with sweet potato, pecan, vanilla butter, and collards.  The pork was cooked perfectly and drenched in a thick syrupy sauce, which also paired nicely with the sweet potato. 

Although I usually don't order fried chicken, their version was lightly battered and had just the right amount of crispiness.  The portion size was enormous and we packed half of the basket as leftovers. 

The last entree was a crispy scored flounder with a apricot shallot sauce.  Although it may not seem impressive in presentation, the sweet apricot glaze was a huge hit and actually reminded us of the sugar-vinegar space used in Chinese cooking. 

Charleston: 

The Grocery:

Sometimes Southern cuisine can have the reputation of being limited in ingredients.  I hate to admit it, but I used to think all the dishes consisted of corn, beans, and butter.  However, the region is actually rich in natural resources, and cities like Charleston are witnessing an exciting rise of farm-to-table cuisine.  In restaurants such as The Grocery, dishes are complex, layered with a variety of fresh, seasonal ingredients. 

We started off with a grilled peach salad because peaches were in season for late August.  The sweetness of the yellow peaches paired perfectly with the charred shishito peppers, and it was overall a refreshing bite to awaken our appetites. 

There was also a calamari dish that showcased squid in two ways: grilled and fried.  I loved the contrasting textures of the two preparations, and the cucumber-peach-radish salad underneath provided a pleasant crunch. 

Moving onto the warm dishes, we could not get enough of the sweet corn agnolotti.  Tender chunks of crab meat were paired with crab, butter beans, corn, and chanterelles. The filling of the agnolotti was creamy with a slight hint of sweetness. 

Next came the wood roasted littleneck clams, which was prepared with chorizo, white wine, poblano, and sour dough. Slather some bread in the spicy leftover sauce and your tastebuds will thank you. 

We also had some sort of seared fish (red snapper I think?).  I remember that it was delicious but sadly I forgot to take down the name. 

Probably the most inventive dish of the night was their version of Pad Thai, except instead of using noodles, they substituted it with thinly sliced pig skin.  A believer in the head-to-tail cooking philosophy, I absolutely loved the extra chewiness of the pig skin. 

The seemingly never-ending meal was concluded with a corn bread french toast topped with blueberry preserves, sweet corn ice cream, and caramel-covered kettle corn.  Buttery and oh-so-gooey, it was the perfect end to an amazing dinner. 

Low Country Bistro:

Although this was not originally on our list, it turned out to be a nice joint for casual, traditional low country food.  Having neglected veggies for the last few days, we ordered the swordfish blt salad, which turned out to be more of a fish entree than a salad. 

The Southern Paella was like comfort in a bowl.  Filled with shrimp, Andouille sausage, braised pork belly, beans, and rice, it was the kind of dish that would warm your soul on a chilly winter day. 

Of course, the trip would have been incomplete without proper shrimp and grits.  Honestly, before this trip I used to hate grits, mainly because I only had poorly prepared ones.  However, grits like these have changed my perspective and I am now a believer.  

Swig and Swine:

The last and final item on my checklist was real, down and messy Southern barbecue.  Swig and Swine fits that category perfectly.  We decided to sample a variety of cuts and side dishes, ordering a tray of brisket, pulled pork, ribs, pickled vegetables, and collards.  Every cut of meat was fantastic, and even though we were provided with five types of sauce, they were almost unnecessary because the meat had so much flavor already.  The ribs were our favorite and we actually ordered a second serving.  

To finish off, we split a simple banana pudding.

Parting Thoughts:

Much of this trip had been an educational experience.  It was a trip composed of juxtapositions of tastes and ideas, from the traditional to the innovative, from food prepared for the historically wealthy to food invented by the poorest of the poor, from food that celebrates global influences to food that champions local producers.  This was only a glimpse, but I promise I will be back for more.